So you’ve decided to get yourself some backyard chickens – awesome choice! But now comes the big question that’s probably keeping you up at night: what size chicken coop do you need for 6 chickens? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with everything you need to know to keep your feathered friends happy, healthy, and laying those delicious eggs.
The Golden Rule of Chicken Space
Let’s cut right to the chase. For 6 standard chickens, you’ll need
- Inside the coop: 18-30 square feet (3-5 sq ft per chicken)
- For the run: 60+ square feet (10+ sq ft per chicken)
But there’s more to it than just these numbers. Let’s dig deeper so you can be sure your girls have the perfect home!
Coop Size Requirements: Breaking It Down
When it comes to chicken coops size really does matter. Chickens that are cramped get stressed, stop laying and can even start pecking at each other. Nobody wants that drama in the henhouse!
Standard Breed Space Requirements
For your average chicken breeds, the math is pretty simple:
- Minimum space: 3 square feet per chicken
- Comfortable space: 4 square feet per chicken
- Generous space: 5 square feet per chicken
So for 6 chickens you’d need
- Minimum: 18 square feet
- Comfortable: 24 square feet
- Generous: 30 square feet
A 4×8 foot coop (32 square feet) would be perfect for 6 chickens, giving you a bit of room to grow your flock later if chicken math gets you (and trust me, it probably will!).
What About Bantams or Large Breeds?
If you’re raising bantam chickens (the cute mini versions), you can get away with about 2 square feet per bird. But if you’ve got larger breeds like Jersey Giants or Orpingtons, bump it up to 4-5 square feet each.
Chicken Run Size: Let Them Stretch Their Wings!
Chickens don’t just need a place to sleep – they need space to scratch, dust bathe, and do all those fun chicken things during the day.
For 6 chickens, your run should be at least 60 square feet (10 sq ft per bird), but honestly, bigger is always better. My chickens have about 15 square feet each in their run, and they’re still always excited when I let them free-range!
If your chickens will be confined to their run most of the time (not free-ranging), I’d recommend going even bigger – maybe 15-20 square feet per bird.
What Happens If Your Coop Is Too Small?
You might be tempted to squish a few extra chickens in, but that’s asking for trouble:
- Stressed chickens = fewer eggs
- Ammonia buildup from poop (eww and unhealthy!)
- Fighting and feather pecking
- More disease problems
- Hens might refuse to roost in the coop at night
On the flip side, a coop that’s way too big can be harder to heat in winter. So finding that sweet spot is key.
Other Important Coop Features
Size isn’t everything (don’t tell the roosters I said that). Your coop also needs:
Nesting Boxes
You’ll need about 1 nesting box for every 3-4 hens. For 6 chickens, that means 2 nesting boxes should be plenty. Even though you might think each hen wants her own private box, they actually prefer to lay in the same spots as their friends. Weird but true!
Roosting Bars
Each chicken needs about 8-10 inches of roosting space. For 6 chickens, that’s 48-60 inches (4-5 feet) of roosting bar. Make sure it’s at least 2 feet off the ground and higher than your nesting boxes.
Ventilation
Don’t skimp on this! Good air flow prevents moisture buildup and respiratory issues. Your coop should have vents near the roof that stay open year-round.
Common Coop Sizes and How Many Chickens They Hold
Let’s look at some standard coop sizes and how many chickens they can accommodate:
Coop Size | Square Footage | Number of Standard Chickens |
---|---|---|
4×4 feet | 16 sq ft | 5 chickens |
4×6 feet | 24 sq ft | 8 chickens |
4×8 feet | 32 sq ft | 10 chickens |
6×8 feet | 48 sq ft | 16 chickens |
8×10 feet | 80 sq ft | 26 chickens |
10×10 feet | 100 sq ft | 33 chickens |
For 6 chickens, a 4×6 foot coop would be comfortable, and a 4×8 foot coop would give you some room to expand.
Climate Considerations for Your Coop
Where you live affects how big your coop should be:
- Cold climates: You might want to go slightly smaller (but still meeting the minimum requirements) to help your chickens stay warm.
- Hot climates: Bigger is better to allow for more air circulation and cooling.
DIY or Buy? The Cost Factor
The million dollar question (well, hopefully not literally): should you build or buy your coop?
Building Your Own Coop
- Average cost: About $300 for a coop suitable for 6 chickens
- Pros: Can customize to your exact needs, potentially cheaper
- Cons: Requires time, tools, and some building skills
Buying a Pre-made Coop
- Average cost: Around $600 for a quality coop for 6 chickens
- High-end options: Amish-built coops can cost $2,000+ but last forever
- Pros: Convenience, professionally built
- Cons: Higher cost, may not meet all your specific needs
I built my first coop and it was, um, let’s just say “rustic looking” But it worked! My second coop was store-bought and definitely prettier, but both kept the chickens happy.
Real Talk: Planning for the Future
Here’s something most guides won’t tell you: chicken math is REAL! You’ll probably want more chickens eventually. Almost everyone does.
If you think you’ll only ever want 6 chickens, get a coop sized for 8. Trust me on this one!
6 Chickens: The Perfect Starter Flock
Six chickens is actually an ideal number to start with. You’ll get around 4-5 eggs per day during peak laying season, which is perfect for a small family. Plus, chickens are social creatures who need buddies, but 6 isn’t so many that you’ll be overwhelmed with care or poop cleanup!
Don’t Forget These Coop Essentials
A properly-sized coop also needs:
- Predator protection: Hardware cloth (not chicken wire), secure locks
- Easy access: For collecting eggs and cleaning
- Proper flooring: Wood floors are easier to clean
- Storage space: For feed and supplies
- Lighting: Natural light is best, but some supplemental light in winter helps with egg production
My Personal Experience
When I started with chickens, I crammed 8 birds into a coop that was really meant for 6. Big mistake! The girls were cranky, egg production was down, and cleaning that coop was a nightmare. I expanded their space and within a week they were happier and laying better.
Remember, these space requirements are MINIMUMS. Your chickens will always appreciate more room if you can provide it!
Final Thoughts
Getting the right sized coop for your 6 chickens is one of the most important decisions you’ll make as a chicken keeper. It affects their health, happiness, and productivity.
To sum it up:
- Coop size: 18-30 square feet (3-5 sq ft per chicken)
- Run size: 60+ square feet (10+ sq ft per chicken)
- Nesting boxes: 2 boxes for 6 chickens
- Roosting space: 4-5 feet of roosting bar
With these guidelines, your chickens will be comfortable and happy, and you’ll be rewarded with plenty of fresh eggs and chicken antics to enjoy!
Have you built or bought a coop for your chickens yet? I’d love to hear about your setup in the comments below!
Questions to Help Decide What Size Chicken Coop is Right
The first big question you need to answer before you can determine the size of your chicken coop will be the kinds of hens you plan to purchase. We all know there are dozens of options when buying chicks for your backyard chicken farm. The American Poultry Association recognizes 53 large chicken breeds, not including the many specialty bantam breeds. Below you will find a handy chart with 40 different chickens including their weight, color, temperament, and even their egg-laying patterns.
Chart of Hen Breeds and Weight
Breed Name |
Bird Size |
Egg Color |
Behavior |
Egg Laying |
|
Source |
Belgian D’Anver |
or Antwerp Belgian |
Barbu d’Anvers |
1.8-3lbs |
White |
Buff Sablepoot/Botted Bantam |
2-4lbs |
White or tinted in color |
Adaptable to confinement or free range; mostly gentle; more easily handled. |
Excellent |
|
Appenzeller |
3-4.5lbs |
White |
Not very tolerant of close confinement; flyer; active |
flighty |
|
Source |
Jaerhon or Norwegian Jaerhon or Norske Jærhøne |
3.2-4lbs |
White |
Adaptable to confinement |
but prefers free range; active |
Ancona |
4-6 lbs |
White |
Prefers free range; nervous & restless in confinement; flyer; active |
flighty |
|
Source |
Campine |
4-6lbs |
White |
Economical eater; semi- adaptable to confinement |
but prefers free range; flyer; alert |
Leghorn |
4.5-6lbs |
White |
Economical eater; better adaptable to confinement then some Mediterranean; enjoys free range; flyer; flighty; spritely |
noisy |
|
Ameraucana |
4-5 lbs |
Blue |
Well adaptableto confinementor free range;mostly calm |
non-aggressive |
|
Marans |
5-8lbs |
Dark brown |
Varies widely by individual and strain. |
Excellent |
|
Andalusian |
5.5-7lbs |
White |
Semi-adaptable to confinement |
but prefers free range; active |
|
Barnevelder |
5-6lbs |
Dark brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
docile |
|
Aseel |
5- 5.4lbs |
Cream |
Bears confinement better than most other game breeds; extremely fierce & pugnacious |
but docile & easily handled when away from other cocks; because of aggressiveness |
|
Source |
Dominique or Dominike |
5-7lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm mostly |
but more flighty than other dual purpose breeds |
Source |
Araucana |
5-7.5lbs |
Blue |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
non- aggressive |
Catalana |
6-8lbs |
White |
Less tolerant of close confinement; active |
vigorous |
|
Crevecoeur |
6.5-8lbs |
White |
Suited for close (and dry) confinement; active; can be aggressive |
Good |
|
Holland or American Holland |
6.5-8.5lbs |
White |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
good tempered |
|
La Fleche |
6.5-8lbs |
White |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; active |
flighty |
|
New Hampshire or New Hampshire Red |
6.5-8.5 lbs |
Light brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm; can be docile or aggressive; can be curious |
Excellent |
|
Faverolles |
6.5-8lbs |
Cream |
Bears confinement well; alert; calm; very docile; genteel; prone to bullying by others |
so may not do well in a mixed flock |
|
Australorp or Black Australorp |
6.5-8.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
docile; more easily handled |
|
Buckeye |
6.5-9lbs |
Brown |
Adaptable to confinement |
very adaptable to free range; calm |
|
Chantecler |
6.5-8.5lbs |
Brown |
Bears confinement well; calm |
docile |
|
Delaware |
6.5-8.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
docile |
|
Rhode Island |
6.5-8.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; active |
calm & fairly docile |
|
Wyandotte |
6.5-8.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
Excellet |
|
Source |
Dorking |
7-9lbs |
White |
Adaptable to confinement or free range; calm; docile; stately or awkward; fattens easily; more easily handled |
Poor |
Source |
Minorca |
7.5-9lbs |
White |
Adaptable to confinement |
but prefers free range; restlessly active |
Naked Neck or Transylvanian Naked Neck or Turken |
7-8lbs |
Light brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; active; calm |
docile; more easily handled |
|
Java |
7.5-9.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
Good |
|
Langshan |
7.5-9.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; active for their size; graceful; not as calm or docile as other large breeds |
Good |
|
Malay |
7-9lbs |
Brown |
Needs to be active; intolerant of close confinement; among the most aggressive |
but more placid than most game birds; because of aggressiveness |
|
Plymouth Rock |
7.5-9.5lbs |
Brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
docile; more easily handled |
|
Sussex |
7-9lbs |
Light brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; calm; gentle; active; can be curious; more easily handledgood |
Good |
|
Orpington |
8-10lbs |
Brown |
Adaptable to free range; very adaptable to confinement; docile; more easily handled; can be bullied |
Excellent |
|
Source |
Spanish |
White-Faced Black Spanish |
Spanish White Ear |
or Clownface Spanish |
White-Faced Black Spanish |
Brahma |
9.5-10lbs |
Brown |
Adaptable to confinement or free range; mostly gentle; more easily handled. |
Good |
|
Source |
Welsumer or Welsummer |
9.7-16lbs |
Dark brown |
Well adaptable to confinement or free range; lively |
but more docile than flighty. |
Jersey Giant |
10-13lbs |
Brown |
Because of size |
not an economical eater; adaptable to confinement or free range; calm |
|
Sumatra |
11-13lbs |
White |
Weeds to be active; intolerant of close confinement; pugnacious; because of aggressiveness |
not recommended for a mixed flock |
How many chickens fit in a coop? The real answer!
FAQ
How big should a chicken coop be?
Reserve about 2 square feet in the coop per bantam. Provide a nest box for every three to four hens. This chicken coop size calculator assumes that your chickens spend most of their time outside and only sleep inside the coop. If they live in the coop all day, your coop should be bigger.
What size Coop do you need for a rooster coop?
A small to medium flock of 6 chickens, whether you’ve got a rooster or not, will require you to have a coop size of at least 24 sq ft for normal-sized chickens, and 12 sq ft. for any bantam breeds. A flock of 8 chickens is no longer considered a small flock!
How many chickens in a 4×6 Coop?
For 6 chickens, you need a minimum of 24 square feet (2.23 square meters) of coop space, following the guideline of 4 square feet (0.37 square meters) per chicken. How many chickens can you have in a 4×6 coop? A 4×6 coop provides 24 square feet of space.
How many hens can a chicken coop have?
Install a nesting box for every three to four hens. You have more flexibility for larger flocks, and you can go for one box for every 6 chickens. The chicken coop calculator adds a box for every three to four chickens. For more information on nesting boxes, check our complete chicken coop guide.
What is the chicken coop and run size calculator?
The Chicken Coop and Run Size Calculator is valuable for designing your flock’s comfortable and safe living environment. By considering the number of chickens, size, and space requirements, you can create a home that promotes your chickens’ health, happiness, and productivity.
How much Coop space does a chicken need?
Ensuring adequate coop space allows all birds to feel secure and prevents unnecessary stress. The outdoor run is where chickens exercise, forage for food, and engage in natural behaviors. If your chickens are confined to a run instead of free-ranging, you need to provide at least 8-10 square feet per bird.
How big of a coop do 6 chickens need?
The chicken coop for 6 chickens must be at least 4 square feet per chicken, though smaller breeds like Bantam chickens may only need about 2-3 square feet per bird. If you have 6 chickens, the coop must be at least 24 square feet. You can purchase a chicken coop and run together.
What is the 90 10 rule for chickens?
The 90/10 rule for chickens states that 90% of a chicken’s diet should come from a balanced, complete poultry feed, while the remaining 10% can be made up of treats, such as garden scraps, fruits, vegetables, or scratch grains. This rule ensures that chickens receive all the essential nutrients they need for growth, health, and egg production without diluting their diet with too many nutritionally empty extras.
Is a 4×4 coop big enough for 6 chickens?
… we know that you want to meet your needs reliably without sacrificing half your yard to the chickens, a 4×4 coop for 6 chickens is not typically big enough
Is a 4×8 coop big enough for 8 chickens?
This 4×8 chicken coop is perfect for a small flock of up to 8 chickens. It comes with a wire-meshed run that extends under the hutch to offer 32 square feet of free space for your chickens to explore and forage for worms. Raising the hutch also helps keep your chickens dry and reduce instances of water or flood damage.