Have you been looking at chicken ads online and stumbled across the term “pullet” but weren’t sure exactly what it meant? Or maybe you’re new to chicken keeping and trying to understand all the terminology? Well, you’ve come to the right place! As a long-time chicken keeper myself, I’m gonna break down everything you need to know about pullet chickens.
What Exactly is a Pullet Chicken?
Simply put, a pullet is a young female chicken that hasn’t reached maturity yet. Think of pullets as the teenagers of the chicken world! They’re past the chick stage but not quite fully mature hens.
Most chicken experts agree that a pullet is a female chicken under one year of age who hasn’t started laying eggs yet, or is just beginning her egg-laying journey. The male equivalent of a pullet is called a cockerel.
Here’s a quick breakdown of chicken life stages:
- Egg – Where all chickens begin!
- Chick – A baby chicken (male or female)
- Pullet – A young female chicken (typically 12-52 weeks old)
- Hen – A mature female chicken (over 1 year old)
- Cockerel – A young male chicken (under 1 year)
- Rooster – A mature male chicken
Different Types of Pullets Explained
When browsing for pullets you might come across these specific terms
- Started Pullet: A female chicken around 15-22 weeks old
- Point-of-Lay Pullet: A female chicken around 22 weeks old, just about ready to lay eggs
- Pullet: Generally, any female chicken from 12-52 weeks old
How to Identify a Pullet vs. a Mature Hen
Not sure if you’re looking at a pullet or a mature hen? Here are some key differences to help you tell them apart:
Appearance
- Feathers: Pullets have newer, shinier feathers that look fresh. They might still have some areas where the feathering isn’t complete. Mature hens often have more worn, duller feathers.
- Comb and Wattles: Pullets have bright red combs that are developing. Mature hens have fully developed, sometimes duller combs.
- Size: Pullets are usually smaller than mature hens of the same breed.
Behavior
- Activity Level: Pullets tend to be more active and curious but less savvy about predators.
- Social Behavior: Pullets are still figuring out the pecking order and their place in the flock.
Physical Characteristics
- Legs: In yellow-legged breeds (like Rhode Island Reds), pullets have bright, even yellow legs with smooth scales. Mature hens’ leg color fades with laying and age.
- Vent: A pullet’s vent is typically small, clean and bright. A mature hen’s vent is usually larger, sometimes drier, and may be light pink, white or grayish.
- Beak: Pullets have straighter, more uniform colored beaks. Mature hens may have slightly bent beaks with some discoloration.
When Do Pullets Start Laying Eggs?
This is one of the most common questions I get from new chicken keepers! The age when pullets start laying eggs varies by breed, but most begin somewhere between 16-24 weeks of age.
Production breeds like Leghorns, Rhode Island Reds, and Golden Comets typically start laying around 16-20 weeks. They’ve been bred to mature quickly and produce lots of eggs.
Heritage breeds like Orpingtons and Jersey Giants are slower to mature and might not start laying until 24-28 weeks or even later.
Remember, rushing pullets into laying can cause health problems down the road, so don’t try to force it with artificial lighting too early!
Pullet Eggs: What to Expect
When pullets first start laying, their eggs are noticeably smaller than what you’ll get from mature hens. These first eggs, often called “pullet eggs,” may also have some quirks:
- They might be oddly shaped
- The shells could be softer
- They’re definitely smaller than regular eggs
- Some might not have yolks
Don’t worry though – this is normal! As your pullet matures, her eggs will gradually increase in size until they reach the standard size for her breed, usually after a few months of laying.
Many chefs actually prefer pullet eggs because they have a richer yolk and more intense flavor. Just be careful when cooking them as they cook faster than regular eggs!
Should You Buy Pullets or Chicks?
This is a decision every chicken keeper has to make! There are pros and cons to both options:
Pros of Buying Pullets
- Less Wait Time for Eggs – Pullets will start laying within weeks rather than months
- Easier Care – No need for brooders, heat lamps, or special chick feed
- Lower Risk – You avoid the vulnerable chick stage where mortality can be higher
- Less Overall Cost – When you factor in all the expenses of raising chicks, pullets can actually be more economical
Cons of Buying Pullets
- Higher Initial Cost – Pullets cost more upfront (around $25 compared to $5 for chicks)
- Less Friendly – Pullets don’t imprint on you like chicks do, so they might be less tame
- Pecking Order Issues – Introducing pullets to an existing flock can cause temporary drama
- Unknown History – Unless you buy from a reputable source, you don’t know how they were raised
Caring for Pullets
If you’ve decided to go with pullets, here are some tips for caring for them:
Housing
Pullets need proper housing with at least 4 square feet per bird in the coop and 10 square feet in the run. They’re still growing, so don’t overcrowd them!
Feed
At around 16 weeks, pullets should transition from chick starter feed to layer feed (16% protein). Make sure to provide:
- Fresh water daily
- Quality layer feed
- Oyster shell (free choice)
- Grit for digestion
Integration
If you’re adding pullets to an existing flock, do it carefully:
- Quarantine new birds for at least 2 weeks
- Introduce them at night when existing chickens are calmer
- Provide extra feeding stations to reduce competition
- Watch for excessive bullying or pecking
Where to Buy Pullets
You can purchase pullets from several sources:
- Hatcheries – Many hatcheries sell started pullets, though they may be more expensive due to shipping.
- Local Farms – Often the best option, as you can see the birds before buying.
- Feed Stores – Seasonal availability, usually in spring and early summer.
- Online Classifieds – Exercise caution! Make sure to inspect the birds carefully before purchasing.
Warning Signs When Buying Pullets
When shopping for pullets, avoid birds that show any of these warning signs:
- Listless behavior or dull eyes
- Wheezing, coughing, or abnormal breathing
- Discharge from eyes or nostrils
- Missing feathers (beyond normal molting)
- Dirty vent area
- Abnormal droppings
- Pale or discolored combs
- Parasites (check under wings and vent area)
My Experience with Pullets
I’ve raised both chicks and pullets over the years, and I’ll tell you – there are advantages to both! My first time buying pullets was when I needed to quickly replace some older hens in my flock. I bought 4 Rhode Island Red pullets that were about 18 weeks old, and they started laying within 3 weeks of bringing them home.
The biggest challenge was integrating them with my existing older hens. There was definitely some drama in the coop for the first week or so! But after everyone sorted out the new pecking order, things settled down nicely.
I do think chicks end up being friendlier overall, but for quick egg production, pullets can’t be beat. Just make sure you’re buying from a reputable source – I once made the mistake of buying “pullets” from someone on a classified ad, only to discover they were actually older hens past their prime laying years! Now I only buy from breeders I trust.
Common Questions About Pullets
How can you tell a pullet from a cockerel?
As they grow, pullets develop more rounded feathers on their backs and necks, while cockerels develop pointed saddle and hackle feathers. Cockerels also develop larger combs and wattles earlier than pullets.
How long does a chicken remain a pullet?
A female chicken is considered a pullet until she’s about one year old or until after her first molt, depending on who you ask.
Are pullets worth the extra cost?
If you want eggs sooner and don’t want to deal with the challenges of raising chicks, then yes! Pullets are often worth the additional cost.
Can pullets live with mature hens?
Yes, but introduce them carefully to minimize bullying. Provide enough space and multiple feeding stations.
Conclusion
Pullets are an excellent option for backyard chicken keepers who want to start collecting eggs sooner rather than later. While they cost more upfront than day-old chicks, they require less specialized care and will start producing eggs much quicker.
Whether you’re just starting your backyard flock or adding to an existing one, understanding what pullets are and how to care for them is essential knowledge for any chicken keeper.
Happy chicken keeping!
Keeping the birds healthy
- Separate your birds from other flocks, pets and wildlife.
- Limit visitors from entering your poultry house and yard.
- Keep your flock’s area free of rodents.
- Use screens to keep wild birds out of the poultry house.
- Rotate yard and range areas so that birds aren’t on the same ground each year.
- Routinely clean your flock’s housing area.
- Use a low-level coccidiostat drug in the feed during the brooding and growing period.
- Occasionally check birds for lice and mites.
Selecting chicks and pullets
Under proper care, healthy, well-bred chicks make for good layers. Selecting the right type of chick is key to efficient production. Small-bodied commercial White Leghorns that produce a lot of eggs at a low cost are the best layer hens. Some commercial brown egg-laying chickens lay nearly as well as White Leghorns.
If you are interested in producing eggs and meat, consider raising some good egg-type pullets and some broiler crosses for meat, rather than trying to use a dual-purpose breed that isnt best for either purpose. Pullets refer to young chickens that are less than one year of age.
Order sexed pullet chicks when purchasing layers. You don’t need males in a layer flock unless you want fertile eggs for hatching and most city ordinances for backyard chickens prohibit roosters. Commercial hatcheries and jobbers can provide healthy chicks or pullets for layer flocks.
Its best to delay the sexual maturity of pullets to permit better body growth before they begin egg production. An increase in day length encourages early sexual maturity of the pullet. Chicks hatched between April and August can be exposed to the natural day length because the day length is decreasing during the latter part of the growth period. These birds will respond favorably to increased light stimulation when they are physically ready to come into production.
Producers with small flocks should consider starting chicks after March, since less heat will be required to brood them. Brooding is the process of raising chicks, which includes keeping their body temperatures warm. To maintain the chicks’ body temperature, flock owners use warming houses called brooders.
Consider purchasing started pullets. Evaluate the cost of raising a started pullet yourself so you can compare it to your dealer’s prices. Here are some tips and tricks to help you calculate costs.
- Multiply your chick cost by 1.1 to allow for possible death or culling.
- From hatch to 20 weeks-old.
- Leghorn pullets will eat 16 to 18 pounds per bird.
- Mature birds will eat from 20 to 22 pounds per bird.
- Assume equipment costs will depreciate over a 10-year period and housing costs over a 20-year period.
- Include costs for litter, heat for brooding, lights, medication, etc.
- Allow for any payments made for labor to care for the flock.
- Convert your figure to a per-pullet basis for comparison.
Late spring and summer housing needs for brooding and rearing chicks and pullets are minimal. You can use any small building that meets the floor space needs of your chicks and pullets. After brooding, you can raise pullets in a fenced range or yard with a covered shelter for protection.
You can buy brooding, feeding and watering equipment from local feed and farm supply outfits. Some of the equipment you can build yourself. You can also check with local farmers for used equipment. Remember to always clean and disinfect any equipment before introducing the birds.
You may use roosts for pullets over 6 weeks of age. A roost is a perch that birds use to rest on at night. Use rounded, 2-inch, non-metal materials placed 12 to 15 inches apart. You can slant the roosting rack from the floor to about 24 inches high on the wall. You could also place it on a screened platform over a dropping pit. Allow 6 linear inches of roosting space for pullets.
- Each chick needs ½ square foot of brooder house space from 1 day to 6 weeks of age.
- Each Leghorn pullet needs 1½ to 2 square feet of floor space when confined during the growing period (6 to 15 weeks of age).
- Each mature pullet needs 2 to 2 ½ square feet of floor space when confined during the growing period.
Thoroughly clean and disinfect the house and equipment before starting chicks. For used houses,
- Remove litter, manure, dust and cobwebs from the house.
- Wash the house using pressurized water.
- Scrub and scrape all organic matter from the building and equipment surfaces.
- Disinfect the building and equipment using an appropriate disinfectant.
- Make sure to follow the directions on the manufacturer’s label.
- Dry and air out the building.
- Place 2 to 4 inches of wood shavings, straw or other litter material on the floor.
- Place a cardboard fence around the brooding area to confine the chickens to the heat source for the first week.
Example of a brooder for 20 to 50 chicks.
Brooders are warming houses used to maintain the body temperatures of young birds. There are numerous heat sources you can use to warm the brooder including: infrared lamps, simple light bulbs or small electric elements.
Infrared lamps are a good heat source for brooding chicks. Use porcelain sockets approved for infrared lamps. Suspend the lamps at least 15 inches from the litter using a chain or wire (not the electric cord).
One 250 watt infrared lamp is generally sufficient for heating 80 chicks with an average brooder house temperature of 50 F. You can add one chick to this estimate for every degree over 50 F. It’s best to provide more than one lamp. This will make sure the chicks are with heat if one lamp burns out.
An example of a basic brooding area.
You can supply more heat by lowering the lamps to 15 inches above the litter or by using a higher-wattage lamp. You can reduce the heat by turning off some lamps, using smaller lamps or raising the lamp to 24 inches above the litter. Always base chick comfort on their body temperature, not the air temperature.
You can purchase small brooders with electric heating elements.
You can also use a simple light bulb brooder similar to the one shown. You can simply change the bulb size in this unit to adjust the temperature.
Most of the larger brooders use gas or oil as fuel to more adequately supply heat.
When using a brooder, start the chicks at 90 to 95 F. Make sure to take this temperature 2 inches off the floor, under the edge of the hover. Reduce the temperature by 5 F per week until the chicks no longer need supplemental heat.
You can watch the chicks to gauge their comfort level. If the chicks crowd together they need more heat. If the chicks move away from the heat source, they’re too hot. Allow 7 to 10 square inches of space under the brooder for each chick.
Start the brooder the day before the chicks arrive and adjust it to the proper temperature.
Complete feeds from the local feed store are a good option for small flock owners. Farms that have good mixing facilities for other livestock can use local grains mixed with the proper commercial concentrate. Follow the directions provided by your local feed supplier.
A starter mash is generally fed for the first 6 to 8 weeks. Place the feed on chick box lids or trays for the first few days. Make sure the chicks have water as soon as they arrive. Provide 1 linear inch of feeder space per chick at the hoppers at first. You can increase the space to 2 inches once the chicks are 2 weeks old.
After 8 weeks of age, pullets are then given a grower or developer mash. You can then increase the feeder space to 3 to 4 inches per growing pullet. Once the pullets start laying (about 20 weeks of age) you can start the birds on a laying mash.
A hanging tube-type feeder 15 inches in diameter will feed about 30 birds. The birds will waste less feed if you fill the hoppers half full and adjust the feeder height or size to meet the birds’ size. You should have at least three sizes of hoppers to use for growing birds.
A yard or range can supplement pullet diets with green feed. Make sure chicks or pullets have chick- or pullet- sized grit available at the appropriate age. Try to keep your growing pullets within body-weight guidelines provided by the breeder.
Provide a one-gallon water fountain per 50 chicks during the first 2 weeks. Increase the number or size of waterers from 2 to 10 weeks to provide 40 inches of watering space per 100 birds or 1 gallon capacity per 10 birds if using fountains.
Use a platform under waterers to avoid wet litter. Automatic waterers can save you labor, even with small flocks. Make sure chicks and pullets always have access to fresh, clean water.