As someone who’s kept shrimp for years in planted tanks, I get this question a lot from newcomers to the hobby The short answer is yes, you should feed your shrimp, even in a planted tank – but it’s not as straightforward as you might think. Let me break down everything you need to know about feeding these fascinating little creatures.
The Natural Diet Isn’t Enough (Usually)
While planted tanks provide some natural food sources through:
- Biofilm that grows on plants and surfaces
- Natural algae
- Decaying plant matter
- Microorganisms
These sources alone typically aren’t enough to maintain a healthy shrimp colony, especially in newer tanks. Your shrimpies need more than just what nature provides in your aquarium.
When You MUST Feed Your Shrimp
Here’s when supplemental feeding becomes super important:
- New Tank Setup
- First 3-4 months while biofilm establishes
- Limited natural food sources available
- Shrimp need extra nutrition to settle in
- Breeding Colony
- Breeding shrimp need extra nutrients
- More food = better breeding success
- Helps maintain female health during breeding
- High Population Density
- More than 10-15 shrimp per 5 gallons
- Natural food sources get depleted quickly
- Competition for food increases
Feeding Guidelines That Actually Work
I’ve found these feeding practices work best for my shrimp
Frequency
- 2-3 times per week for established tanks
- Every other day for breeding colonies
- Daily small amounts for new setups
Amount
Feeding Rule of Thumb:Only feed what they can consume in 1-2 hoursRemove uneaten food after this timeBest Foods to Offer
- Commercial Shrimp Foods
- Specialized pellets
- Algae wafers
- Shrimp-specific granules
- Natural Supplements
- Blanched vegetables (zucchini, spinach)
- Indian almond leaves
- Dried leaves (safe varieties)
Finding the Right Balance
Here’s what’s worked for me
For Limited Population Growth
- Feed less frequently (1-2 times weekly)
- Smaller portions
- Let them rely more on natural foods
For Breeding Success
- Regular feeding schedule
- Varied diet
- High-quality commercial foods
Common Feeding Mistakes to Avoid
Trust me, I’ve made these mistakes so you don’t have to:
- Overfeeding
- Causes water quality issues
- Can lead to bacterial blooms
- Stresses shrimp out
- Wrong Food Types
- Avoid copper-containing foods
- Skip fish foods with too much protein
- Don’t use expired foods
- Inconsistent Feeding
- Creates stress
- Can impact breeding
- Affects colony health
My Personal Feeding Strategy
Here’s what I do in my tanks:
- Morning Routine
- Small amount of commercial food
- Check for leftovers after 2 hours
- Remove any uneaten portions
- Weekly Treats
- Blanched veggies once a week
- Rotating different vegetables
- Limited to 3-4 hour feeding window
- Monitoring
- Watch shrimp behavior
- Check for molts
- Observe breeding activity
Tips for Success
- Start Slow
- Begin with small amounts
- Increase gradually as needed
- Observe consumption patterns
- Variety Matters
- Rotate between 2-3 food types
- Include both processed and natural foods
- Watch what your shrimp prefer
- Tank Maintenance
- Regular water changes
- Monitor parameters
- Keep substrate clean
Special Considerations
New Tank Setup
Week 1-4: Daily small feedingsWeek 5-8: Every other dayWeek 9+: Regular feeding scheduleBreeding Colony
- Increase feeding slightly
- Offer more protein-rich foods
- Monitor female shrimp closely
When to Adjust Feeding
You’ll need to change your feeding routine when:
- Population increases
- Breeding activity increases
- Seasonal changes occur
- Water parameters shift
Bottom Line
While planted tanks provide some natural food, supplemental feeding is crucial for healthy shrimp. Find your balance between natural grazing and supplemental feeding based on your tank’s specific situation.
Remember – every tank is different, and it might take some time to find the perfect feeding routine for your shrimp. Start conservatively and adjust based on your observations. Your shrimp will tell you what they need through their behavior and breeding activity.
Don’t Mind the Crowds
Shrimp are very small and have a lower output of metabolic waste than fish, so they can be kept in smaller tanks/more densely populated conditions. With that said, I wouldn’t push it; it is best to do a maximum of 10-15 shrimp per five gallons. Really, a 20-gallon tank is best for breeding. If they are comfortable, Neocaridina shrimp will reproduce often (with a large enough baseline population, this will just happen with no special effort on the part of the owner), and you will soon find your tank filled with lots of tiny shrimplets. Almost any fish will gobble these baby shrimp up, so it makes sense to keep them in a shrimp only tank or a heavily planted tank if you want any of the shrimplets to survive and grow into adulthood. I have a large, breeding colony in my densely planted high tech, which contains a small fish population.
Neocaridina shrimp originate in temperate, shallow pools in Asia. This gives them the advantage of not really needing a heater (as long as your house stays in the 65-80 F range throughout the year). I find that mine are most comfortable and active around 70-76 F. They like relatively soft, acidic water, and in my experience will breed best in conditions around a pH of 6.8-7.5, GH 4-6, and a lower KH. Despite these preferences, they can usually adapt to most conditions, and can even live in somewhat hard water (although I wouldn’t advise it).
Shrimp are easier to keep than fish in many ways, but they are much more sensitive to changes in their water chemistry. Please note that they are very sensitive to copper and many other metals; excessive iron fertilization to achieve red plants or water supplements containing copper can result in swift death. The trace amount of iron found in a complete plant fertilizer is more than adequate for achieving the brightest red plants and should not harm your Neocaridina shrimp at low levels.
Shrimp react poorly to sudden changes in water conditions, much more so than fish. If you see your shrimp swimming all around the tank like fish after a water change, this means that they are not happy with the new water you have added. With that said, is important to do water changes at least once a week to avoid a buildup of waste (two 30 percent changes each week is better than one 50% change).
I do a lot of water changes in my high tech tank, but my shrimp do not mind since I take steps to ensure that the new water I am adding closely matches the parameters of the water already in the tank (you can read more about this in my previous article about understanding water parameters). Failure to adapt to new water conditions can result in jumping behavior or death. Shrimp do not typically jump or climb out of a tank if they are happy with the water parameters.
What about keeping shrimp in high tech tanks? Many people have success breeding Neocaridina shrimp in tanks with CO2 supplementation, but it’s important to make sure that the CO2 does not become excessive. This can be achieved by using a drop checker and making sure it is at a green color (as opposed to yellow). A fluctuating pH due to the CO2 levels changing is another thing to watch out for.
Neos, You are the Chosen One
Hardy, adaptable, and prolific, Neocaridina Davidi (aka the dwarf cherry shrimp) are an ideal choice for any aquarist interested in shrimp, especially beginners. There are many color variations, including, red, blue, black, and green; having been painstakingly bred to express these colors, it is inadvisable to keep multiple colors in the same tank. They will indiscriminately mate, and the offspring will often be a drab brown or clear color. My favorites are the “blue dream” and “black rose” varieties.
When purchasing shrimp, please keep in mind that they are social animals, and they do best in large groups of at least ten individuals. Any less than this and they will tend to hide, rather than graze as a group out in the open. I frequently see beginners make the mistake of buying just a couple shrimp for their community tank, then complaining that they never see the shrimp.
Large or aggressive fish are not suitable tankmates for shrimp. Barbs, bettas and many others will often bully or harass the shrimp, or else straight up eat the shrimp for dinner. Your best bet is a shrimp only aquarium, or else a tank with small, peaceful fish (such as ember tetras or corydoras), lots of vegetation, and a decent water volume.
Everything You Should Know Before You Get Shrimp! 7 Tips for Keeping Shrimp in an Aquarium
FAQ
Do shrimp like heavily planted tanks?
Heavy planting can easily provide enough oxygen to keep shrimp happy if given proper lighting and growing conditions.
Is it necessary to feed shrimp?
One of the most important operational functions in shrimp culture is the provision of adequate food supply to ensure that the cultured animals attained the …
Can shrimp survive without feeding?
With very few exceptions, feeding your shrimps is entirely optional. It’s possible to keep shrimps without ever feeding them if there is just enough biofilm. Actually, it’s the safest way to feed them as little as possible (except certain species like fan shrimp).
When to add shrimp to a planted tank?
While shops may push this in an attempt to sell entire planted systems in a single day, it is much better to allow the tank’s biological system and plants to mature for a few weeks before introducing sensitive animals such as shrimp.