Ever looked at your growing chickens and wondered if they’re developing normally? I’ve been there too! When I first started raising backyard chickens, I was constantly second-guessing whether my feathery friends were growing at the right pace. That’s why I’ve put together this comprehensive guide about 6-week-old chickens – that awkward “teenage” stage when they’re not quite babies anymore but definitely not adults either.
The Teenage Chicken Phase: Not Quite Chicks, Not Quite Adults
At 6 weeks old, chickens have officially entered their adolescent phase. They’ve left behind their cute fluffy chick days but haven’t yet reached their mature adult appearance If you’re new to chicken keeping like I was, this transition period can be confusing – are they developing correctly? What should they look like at this age?
Let’s dive into the details of what you can expect from your 6-week-old chicken flock!
Feather Development: From Fluff to True Feathers
One of the most noticeable changes in 6-week-old chickens is their feathering. Here’s what you’ll typically observe:
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Significant Feather Coverage: Most of their body will be covered with true feathers rather than down, though you’ll still see patches of down, especially around their head and neck areas.
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Wing and Tail Development: Their wing feathers are now well-developed enough to allow for short flights (yes, they can get over low fences at this point!). Tail feathers are also emerging, though they’re still relatively short compared to adult chickens.
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Color Patterns Emerging: The adult feather color patterns are becoming much more apparent, making it easier to identify breed-specific markings. However, don’t be surprised if the final adult coloration isn’t completely developed yet.
I remember when my Buff Orpingtons hit 6 weeks – they were finally starting to look like the golden beauties I had expected! Their juvenile feathers were filling in nicely, though they still had some patchy areas that made them look a bit unkempt.
Body Size and Shape: The Awkward Growth Spurt
Just like human teenagers, 6-week-old chickens often look a bit disproportionate as different parts of their bodies grow at varying rates:
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Weight Range: They typically weigh between 0.75 and 1.5 pounds, depending on the breed. Meat breeds will obviously be heavier at this stage.
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Longer Legs: Their legs are noticeably longer and stronger than when they were chicks, allowing for more agile movement and perching abilities.
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Disproportionate Appearance: Many 6-week-olds look somewhat awkward with relatively large feet and legs compared to their bodies – this is completely normal!
It’s sorta like when teenagers go through growth spurts and suddenly have feet too big for their bodies! My White Cochin bantam looked particularly funny at this age with his gangly legs that seemed too long for his body.
Behavioral Changes: More Independence and Personality
Along with physical changes, you’ll notice significant behavioral developments in your 6-week-old chickens:
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Increased Independence: They’re much less reliant on supplemental heat and spend more time exploring and foraging independently.
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Social Hierarchy Formation: This is when you’ll start seeing the beginnings of the pecking order being established, with young chickens testing their boundaries within the flock.
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Heightened Curiosity: Six-week-old chickens show a high degree of curiosity, actively investigating their environment and interacting with flock mates.
We moved our chicks to the outdoor coop around 4-5 weeks, and by 6 weeks they were totally comfortable exploring their run during the day. They no longer needed the heat lamp except on particularly cold nights.
Visual Cues for a Healthy 6-Week-Old Chicken
When checking if your 6-week-old chickens are healthy, look for these key indicators:
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Alertness and Activity Level: Healthy chickens will be alert and active, reacting to their surroundings with interest.
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Feather Condition: Their feathers should appear clean and relatively well-groomed. Ruffled or matted feathers might indicate illness or parasites.
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Clean Vent Area: The vent should be clean and dry. A dirty vent often signals digestive issues like diarrhea.
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Bright, Clear Eyes: Eyes should look clear and bright, not dull or watery.
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Healthy Legs and Feet: Check for any signs of lameness, swelling, or injury on the legs and feet.
I once had a 6-week-old that wasn’t as active as the others and had slightly ruffled feathers. A quick check revealed she had developed a minor case of coccidiosis, which we caught early thanks to recognizing these signs!
Housing Needs for 6-Week-Old Chickens
At 6 weeks, your chickens’ housing needs will change:
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Space Requirements: They need at least 4 square feet per bird inside the coop and 8-10 square feet per bird in the run. Crowding can lead to stress and behavioral problems.
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Outdoor Readiness: In mild weather, 6-week-old chickens are usually ready to live outside full-time, provided they have adequate shelter from rain, wind, and predators.
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Temperature Considerations: They’re less dependent on supplemental heat but may still need some warmth on cold nights if they’re not fully feathered.
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Perching Opportunities: By this age, they’re able to perch and should be provided with appropriate roosts in their coop.
Our coop has adjustable height perches which was perfect for our growing chickens – we could start them low and gradually raise them as the birds grew more confident.
Feeding Your 6-Week-Old Chickens
The nutritional needs of 6-week-old chickens differ from those of baby chicks:
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Transition to Grower Feed: This is typically when you’ll switch from chick starter feed (which has about 20-22% protein) to grower feed (with 16-18% protein).
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Grit Requirements: Since they’re likely pecking at things besides commercial feed, they need access to grit to help them digest these materials.
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Water Consumption: Their water consumption increases significantly at this age, so make sure they always have access to clean, fresh water.
I’ve found that introducing treats at this age works well too – my 6-week-olds loved small amounts of mealworms and scrambled eggs as occasional supplements to their regular feed.
Sexing 6-Week-Old Chickens: Is It Possible?
Many chicken keepers wonder if they can determine the sex of their birds at 6 weeks. The answer is: sometimes, but not always reliably. Here’s what to look for:
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Comb and Wattle Development: In many breeds, roosters’ combs and wattles develop faster and are larger than hens’ at this age, though this isn’t 100% reliable.
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Behavioral Clues: Young roosters may begin showing territorial behavior or attempt to crow (though it’ll likely sound pretty pathetic at first!).
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Feather Shape and Pattern: In some breeds, males and females develop different feather patterns or shapes, particularly in the neck and tail areas.
I remember being completely convinced that my White Cochin bantam was a pullet until about 7 weeks when his comb suddenly developed quickly and turned bright red – surprise rooster!
Common Health Concerns at 6 Weeks
Be on the lookout for these common health issues in 6-week-old chickens:
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Coccidiosis: A parasitic infection that causes bloody droppings, lethargy, and loss of appetite.
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Internal Parasites: Worms can cause weight loss and diarrhea.
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External Parasites: Mites and lice can infest chickens, causing irritation and feather loss.
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Respiratory Issues: Watch for sneezing, wheezing, or nasal discharge.
Keeping the coop clean with weekly deep cleanings and daily spot cleaning helps prevent many of these issues. I learned this lesson the hard way after being a bit lazy with coop maintenance one summer!
Breed Differences at 6 Weeks
Different chicken breeds develop at different rates and show distinct characteristics at 6 weeks:
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Meat Breeds: Cornish Crosses and other meat birds will be significantly larger at 6 weeks than egg-laying breeds.
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Egg Layers: Breeds like Leghorns tend to be leaner and more active.
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Dual-Purpose Breeds: Birds like Orpingtons and Rhode Island Reds fall somewhere in between.
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Bantams: These smaller breeds will be proportionately smaller at 6 weeks as well.
The difference between my standard Buff Orpingtons and White Cochin bantam at 6 weeks was striking – the bantam was about half the size despite being the same age!
From 6 Weeks to Maturity: What’s Next?
After the 6-week mark, your chickens will continue developing:
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Egg Production: Most hens will begin laying eggs around 5-6 months of age, though this varies by breed.
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Full Size: Most standard chickens reach their full size between 16-24 weeks, depending on the breed.
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Complete Feathering: Adult plumage will be fully developed by about 12 weeks for most breeds.
Personal Tips From My Experience
Having raised multiple batches of chickens, here are some things I’ve learned about the 6-week stage:
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Don’t Rush Integration: If you’re adding 6-week-olds to an existing flock, do it gradually with plenty of supervision. They’re still vulnerable to bullying from adult birds.
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Weather Protection: They may look more grown-up, but 6-week-olds still need protection from extreme weather, especially heat.
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Flying Abilities: Don’t underestimate their new flying skills! Make sure your run is secure or consider wing clipping if necessary.
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Handling Regularly: Continue handling them frequently to maintain tameness, especially if you want friendly adult birds.
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Watch For Bullying: The pecking order becomes more established around this age, so watch for excessive bullying among your young flock.
The 6-week mark represents an important transition in your chickens’ development. They’re no longer delicate chicks but aren’t quite ready for the full responsibilities of chicken adulthood either. By understanding what’s normal for this age, you can ensure your birds are developing properly and address any concerns early.
Remember that while this guide provides general information, individual chickens and different breeds may develop at slightly different rates. The joy of raising chickens is in watching their unique personalities and characteristics emerge – enjoy this awkward teenage phase because they’ll be laying eggs and looking like proper grown-up chickens before you know it!
Do you have 6-week-old chickens? What changes have you noticed in them? I’d love to hear about your experiences in the comments below!
This article was last updated on September 23, 2025, based on my experiences raising multiple breeds of backyard chickens over the past five years.
Supplies Needed for Baby Chicks
There are some supplies youll want to have on hand before bringing your chickens home. Having an area properly set up ahead of time will help your chicks get acclimated, recoup and destress from their long journey, especially if you ordered them through the mail.
- Brooder Boxes – Ideally, your brooder pen will have high enough sides to keep the baby chicks from jumping out. Curved or round shapes are best. Deep corners can lead to a chick getting trapped and/or trampled in the corner. Youll also want this to be a draft-free area.
- Bedding – You need to have something in the bottom of your brooding box for the baby chicks bedding. The ideal depth is about two inches deep. Keep their brooder box clean. You dont want them eating, lying, or breathing in an excess amount of poop. Chickens dont urinate separately. It all comes out in their poop, which makes excellent fertilizer, high in nitrogen. But dont add that straight to your garden! Wait until its had a chance to cool (about six months).
- Pellets or Wood Shavings – The best solutions are pine pellets or wood shavings (though cedar is not recommended. It can cause respiratory distress).
- Hay or Straw – Hay and straw are prone to mold quickly and may harbor pests as well as requiring more frequent cleaning of your baby chicks pen.
- Newspaper – Newspaper is slippery, especially when wet, and can cause a condition in baby chicks called “splayed leg”.
- Heat Plate – Your new darling baby chicks are fuzzy little puff balls of cuteness. But remember, they dont have their feathers yet. Their ideal temperature should be about 92°F. Without the mother hen to keep them warm, they will require a heat source. My new preferred option when it comes to heat for baby chicks is to use a heat plate (pictured above). Theres no danger of fire (as with some heat lamps), and theyre large and adjustable, so your chicks can choose if they need more or less heat and move to the area of the heat plate that suits their needs. Furthermore, I love that I can hang it from our portable chicken coop or use the adjustable legs that come with the plate.
- Heat Lamp – If you prefer a heat lamp, a red bulb heat lamp not only keeps baby chicks warm but also helps protect them from getting pecked and killed by their coop mates. Keep in mind, however, that these can be a fire hazard. Its important to make sure your heat lamp is stable and not near anything that could catch on fire. A heat lamp with a guard is an excellent idea, especially when the chickens get bigger and can jump, fly, and peck at it.
- Waterer – When you first bring your baby chicks home, water is more important than food. Especially if theyre coming via the mail from a hatchery, theres a good chance theyll be dehydrated and in need of immediate water. I prefer to use a galvanized watering container (I prefer metal over plastic as they tend to crack and leak over time, plus they can grow and harbor bacteria). Also, if you have an open water container, baby chicks can fall in and drown.
- When you get the chicks home, place them in their prepared heated brooder box and offer them water. Many people dip the chicks beak into the water so the chick knows where to find it and that its available.
- Its best to use a watering container like this (I prefer metal ones as plastic tends to crack and leak). If its an open container, baby chicks can fall in and drown.
- Water is more important when it comes to raising baby chicks, so usually wait an hour or so before introducing food to make sure theyve drank water first. Always keep them with clean fresh water.
- Food – We choose not to feed our chicks medicated feed. The purpose of raising our own meat is to avoid antibiotics, hormones, pesticides, and chemicals in our food. We use an organic chick starter mix and also give them vegetable scraps from the garden and table. When raising baby chicks, you need to start with the appropriate food for their optimal health and growth. What to feed baby chicks after hatching is important, especially the amount of protein.
- Laying hens or dual-purpose breeds require 16 to 18 grams of daily protein for the first six weeks of life.
- Meat birds have a higher protein demand, needing to be fed 23 grams of protein a day for the first three weeks, then tapering down to 20 grams of protein per day from three to six weeks of age.
- Grit – If youre raising your baby chicks where they dont have access to bare ground or dirt, youll need to provide them with some grit. The sooner, the better. Grit helps them digest their food, as they dont have teeth. Put some grit (a few scoops of soil with tiny pebbles and some grass clippings) in a small container in their pen and let them free range on it.
When Can Chicks Be Moved Outside?
Our chicks start living outside after about two to three weeks of age, but still with the aid of a heat lamp. Well turn off the heat lamp during the day if its warm outside, but turn it back on for chilly nights for a few weeks until theyre about eight weeks old, depending upon the weather.
Hen and Rooster at 6 weeks, how to tell Barnefelder
FAQ
When do baby chicks grow into 6 week old chickens?
Cheers to your baby chicks growing into 6-week-old chickens! You started them strong in week 1, kept the growing going in weeks 2 and 3 and started the teenage stage in weeks 4 and 5. Your pullets and cockerels are likely ready to move from the brooder to the chicken coop.
How long does it take for chickens to grow?
This page documents the growth and development of backyard pet chickens over a six week period. This is a guide about chicks week-by-week (weeks 1-6).
Do chicks grow week by week?
Week by week chick growth! Helpful if you’re unsure of age 🙂 This is my first time raising chicks, so I took waaay to many pictures of them. It’s turned out to be really fun because I can look back and see how they’ve grown. They grow FAST! I thought you all might enjoy seeing the change week by week (well, close to week by week).
How do I know if my chicks are healthy?
Clean the litter and refill the feeder and water as needed. Watch for signs of pasty butt. Quiet, content chirps are signs of happy, warm chicks. Loud, distressed cheeps and huddled chicks means the chicks are too cold. Diet: Chicks should be shown where to drink first, then where to find food.
What is the chick growth guide?
This Chick Growth Guide provides information on dietary changes, heat needs, and much more when it comes to raising a brood of chicks!
What are the tips for ‘1 week old’ chicks?
For example, the tips given for ‘1 Week Old’ are for day 2 up until day 7. While the dates don’t have to be exact, try to stick to the guidelines as closely as possible for each week. This growth guide can be used for mail ordered chicks, chicks purchased from the farm store, or chicks hatched on the homestead!
How to tell if a chick is 6 weeks old?
By week 5, the chicks should have a full set of feathers and look like little chickens. Then they will molt, or lose their feathers and grow in new ones to accommodate their rapidly growing bodies. By week 6, the chicks will grow into pullets and should be fully feathered.
What does a chicken look like at 6 weeks?
6-week-old chickens should be fully feathered and can tolerate cooler temperatures. Birds can easily tolerate temperatures into the 50’s at this age, and cold-tolerant breeds can tolerate temperatures into the 40’s.
How to tell the difference between a hen and a rooster at 6 weeks?