Have you ever wondered exactly how long it takes for those little chicken eggs to transform into fluffy chicks? Whether you’re a backyard chicken enthusiast or just curious about the miracle of life understanding the chicken egg hatching timeline is both fascinating and practical. In this article I’ll walk you through the complete 21-day journey from egg to chick, with all the details you need for a successful hatch.
The Quick Answer: 21 Days is the Magic Number
Chicken eggs take exactly 21 days to hatch under ideal conditions. This three-week period is remarkably consistent across most chicken breeds. However, don’t be surprised if some of your chicks arrive a day or two early, or even a day or two late – that’s completely normal!
As someone who’s hatched dozens of batches of chicks, I can tell you that Day 21 is usually when the excitement happens, but Mother Nature doesn’t always follow our calendars perfectly.
What Affects Hatching Time?
Several factors can influence exactly when your eggs will hatch:
- Temperature fluctuations – If your incubator runs slightly cooler, hatching might be delayed
- Humidity levels – Incorrect humidity can speed up or slow down development
- Egg quality and freshness – Older eggs might take longer to develop
- Breed differences – Some breeds naturally develop slightly faster or slower
- Individual chick development – Just like human babies, some chicks are simply ready sooner!
The Complete Day-by-Day Development Guide
Let’s break down what’s happening inside that egg during the 21-day incubation period:
Days 1-7: The Beginning of Life
Day 1: The magic begins! Cell division starts and the embryo begins forming the basic structure of what will become a chick.
Day 3: This is when the heart actually starts beating! Blood vessels become visible if you candle the egg (more on candling later).
Day 5: The chick’s shape begins forming with tiny limb buds that will become wings and legs. The nervous system and vital organs are also developing.
Day 7: The beak and legs begin forming, and the embryo is starting to look more bird-like. When candling at this stage, you’ll see a dark spot with visible veins.
Days 8-14: Growth and Movement
Day 8: The chick’s eyelids start forming and feather follicles appear on the skin.
Day 10: The beak begins to harden, and feathers start growing, especially around the wings.
Day 12: The chick starts moving inside the egg! The skeleton continues to strengthen.
Day 14: By now, the developing chick is covered in soft down feathers, and its movements inside the shell become more noticeable.
Days 15-21: The Final Countdown
Day 15: Growth accelerates and the chick starts filling up most of the available space inside the egg.
Day 17: The chick positions itself correctly for hatching, with its head near the air cell at the larger end of the egg.
Day 19: The yolk sac gets absorbed into the chick’s body, providing essential nutrients for the hatching process.
Day 20: The exciting part begins! The chick starts “pipping” (breaking through the shell) using its egg tooth (a temporary hard point on its beak).
Day 21: HATCH DAY! The chick completes “zipping” around the shell and emerges as a wet, exhausted, but fully formed baby chick.
Essential Incubation Conditions for a Successful Hatch
For the best hatching results, you’ll need to maintain these critical conditions:
Temperature
- Forced-air incubator: 99.5°F (37.5°C)
- Still-air incubator: 101-102°F measured at the top of the eggs
Temperature is super important! Even small fluctuations can affect development or even kill the embryos.
Humidity
- Days 1-18: 50-55% relative humidity
- Days 18-21: 65-75% relative humidity (during “lockdown”)
Egg Turning
- Turn eggs at least 3-5 times daily until Day 18
- Stop turning on Day 18 for “lockdown”
I always mark my eggs with an X on one side and an O on the other so I know which ones I’ve turned. This helps prevent the embryo from sticking to the shell membrane.
What is “Lockdown” and Why is it Important?
“Lockdown” refers to the final 3 days of incubation (Days 18-21) when you:
- Stop turning the eggs
- Increase humidity to 65-75%
- Avoid opening the incubator unless absolutely necessary
This creates the ideal environment for chicks to position themselves properly for hatching. Opening the incubator during this time can cause temperature drops that might kill chicks in the process of hatching.
Common Hatching Problems and Solutions
Even with perfect care, things don’t always go as planned. Here are some common issues and how to fix them:
| Problem | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Chicks not hatching on Day 21 | Low incubation temperature | Ensure temperature stays at 99.5°F |
| Weak chicks | Poor humidity control | Monitor and adjust humidity levels |
| Chicks stuck in shell | Shell too dry | Maintain 65-75% humidity during lockdown |
| Blood rings when candling | Bacterial infection or improper storage | Use clean, fresh, fertilized eggs |
What to Do When Your Chicks Hatch
When your chicks successfully hatch:
- Leave them in the incubator until they’re fully dry and fluffy (usually 24 hours)
- Prepare a brooder with:
- Heat source maintaining 95°F for the first week
- Clean water (with marbles in the dish to prevent drowning)
- Chick starter feed
- Clean bedding
I’ve learned from experience that moving chicks too early can be stressful for them. They need time to recover from the exhausting process of hatching!
Did You Know? Fun Hatching Facts
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Chicks communicate before hatching! Around Day 19, they start chirping inside the egg to coordinate hatching with their siblings.
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Every chick is born with an “egg tooth” at the tip of their beak specifically for breaking through the shell. This special tool falls off within a day or two after hatching.
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Chicks can survive up to 3 days after hatching without food or water because they absorb the remaining yolk sac before breaking out of the shell. This is how hatcheries can ship day-old chicks!
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If you’re hatching shipped eggs, it’s best to let them rest for 24 hours before placing them in the incubator. This allows the contents to settle after transport.
My Personal Experience with Hatching
I remember my first hatch like it was yesterday. I was so nervous watching those eggs, constantly checking the temperature and humidity. When I finally saw the first pip mark on day 20, I literally couldn’t sleep that night!
One thing I’ve learned over the years is that patience is essential. It’s tempting to help struggling chicks, but most of the time, they need to work through the hatching process themselves to build strength. The 21-day wait can seem forever, but trust me, there’s nothing more rewarding than seeing those fluffy little chicks emerge!
So there you have it! Chicken eggs typically hatch after 21 days of incubation. This amazing transformation from a simple egg to a living, breathing chick is one of nature’s most incredible processes.
Whether you’re using a fancy incubator or letting a broody hen do the work, understanding the 21-day lifecycle will help you achieve better hatching success. Remember to maintain proper temperature and humidity, turn your eggs regularly until lockdown, and prepare your brooder before the expected hatch date.
Have you tried hatching chicken eggs before? What was your experience like? Feel free to share in the comments below!
Looking for more chicken-raising tips? Check out our other articles on proper brooding techniques and selecting the best incubator for your needs!
How to Incubate Chicken Eggs
Now comes the fun part, putting those eggs in the incubator! However, there are a few important steps you should take when preparing the eggs for incubation.
First, you will want to candle all the eggs and mark them for identification. Marking each egg for identification will help you keep track of which eggs are developing throughout the incubation process. You may also choose to outline the air cell to help keep track of humidity levels. As an egg incubates, the air cell will gradually increase in size if the humidity levels are correct and enough moisture is evaporating from the egg. Weighing the eggs and keeping track of each egg’s weight loss can also help you monitor the humidity levels throughout incubation.
When candling the eggs prior to setting them in the incubator, look for these things:
- hairline cracks in the eggshell
- splotchy shells
- double yolks
- blood spots (usually seen as a dark spot inside the egg)
- misplaced air cells (the air cell should be located at the blunt end of the egg)
Eggs with hairline cracks, splotchy shells, double yolks, or blood spots should not be incubated as they will more than likely not fully develop and could even rot in the incubator. Eggs with misplaced air cells can still be incubated, however, those eggs are less likely to hatch properly.
If you are turning the eggs manually, it is a good idea to mark one side of each egg with an X and the other side of each egg with an O. This can help you keep track of how much you rotate the eggs during each turning. You never want to rotate the egg in a complete circle, which can break the chalazae which holds the yolk in place within the egg.
Once the eggs are candled and marked, you can set them in the incubator. If you properly tested your incubator for 24 hours, it should be at the proper temperature and humidity levels. Open the incubator and place the eggs in the incubator. Different models of incubators will have the eggs positioned in different ways. No matter the incubator, always make sure the pointy end of the egg rests slightly lower than the blunt end of the egg. If the eggs are placed on their sides, the pointy end will naturally rest lower than the blunt end. Close the incubator once all the eggs have been set. Over the next 30 minutes, monitor the incubator to make sure it returns to the proper temperature and humidity levels.
Also make sure that all the eggs turn properly when they are turned for the first time. If you manually turn your eggs, you will want to do so three to five times a day for the first two weeks of incubation. Make sure you set a reminder to turn those eggs! For the last week of incubation, turning the eggs frequently is not as important, but it should still be done at least twice a day.
It is important that the incubator maintains a stable humidity level throughout incubation. If the humidity gets too low, too much moisture will evaporate from the eggs causing the embryo to get stuck inside of the shell. If the humidity gets too high, not enough moisture will evaporate from the eggs and the embryo will develop too fast to mature properly. Use a hydrometer to test the humidity in your incubator frequently. Most incubators have a water reservoir that you need to fill in order for correct humidity levels to be maintained. You will need to refill the water reservoir as needed throughout incubation as water evaporates from the reservoir.
Here are some tips for further adjusting the humidity in the incubator:
- Increase or decrease the water surface area of the water reservoir to increase or decrease humidity levels.
- Open or close some of the ventilation vents on the incubator to increase or decrease humidity.
- Use warm water to increase the humidity levels.
- Moist sponges or small towels can also help increase humidity levels.
- Keep the humidity levels moderate in the incubating room.
After you set the eggs, don’t open the incubator unless you are manually turning the eggs or need to refill the water reservoir. The fewer times you open the incubator, the more stable the incubator can keep the temperature and humidity and the better hatch rate you will get.
The next time you will be candling the eggs will be after seven or ten days of incubation. Some folks choose to candle on day seven, which is exactly one week into the incubation period. Others prefer to wait until day ten, which is about halfway through the incubation period.
When you are ready to candle the eggs on day seven or ten, prepare a secure place to set the eggs while you candle them all. Quickly but carefully remove them all from the incubator and close the incubator. Candle the eggs and discard any eggs that show no signs of development. Here is what to look for when candling eggs at day seven or ten:
- Web of blood vessels around dark spot on the yolk – that means an embryo is developing.
- Clear – if the egg looks the same as when you set it, it was not fertile and is not developing.
- Blood ring – a blood ring will look like a narrow red ring within the egg and it means the embryo has died and is not developing.
- Cloudy shadows – cloudy shadows that swirl within the egg also indicate that the embryo has died and will not continue developing.
After candling all the eggs, quickly and carefully place them back in the incubator. Make sure the incubator returns to the proper temperature and humidity levels and that all the eggs turn properly after being placed back in the incubator. Don’t place eggs back in the incubator that are not developing. The non-developing eggs can rot and potentially explode, contaminating all the eggs in your incubator and ruining your hatch.
Lockdown is the term used to refer to the last three days of the incubation period. Chicken eggs have a 21-day incubation period, so days 18-21 are considered lockdown time. Lockdown is when you candle the eggs for the last time and prepare the incubator for when the eggs hatch.
After 18 days of incubation, carefully remove all the eggs from the incubator and candle each egg. Keep an eye out for the following signs:
- embryo fills most of the egg.
- may see some blood vessels around the embryo, especially close to the air cell.
- dark shadow in the air cell (that means the embryo has internally pipped).
- signs of no development- murky or muddled contents, blood ring.
If you are unsure if an egg is developing or not at this stage of incubation, it is safe to keep it in the incubator just to see if it will hatch. If the contents of an egg are clearly not developing or are loose and swirly, the egg will not hatch and should not be put back in the incubator.
Before you place the eggs back in the incubator, you will want to lay down a piece of plastic shelf liner on the floor of the incubator. The shelf liner will provide a non-slip surface for the new hatchlings to stand on, helping to prevent leg issues such as splay leg. Putting the shelf liner on the floor of the incubator may mean that you need to remove the automatic turning system from the incubator. The eggs should not be turned after day 18 of incubation since the chick will now be moving into the proper hatching position.
If you are using a chick hatcher, now will be the time you transfer the eggs to the hatcher. The hatcher should be programmed for proper hatching conditions and prepared the same way you would with an incubator.
Once the shelf liner is in place, you can set all the eggs back in the incubator or hatcher. You will also want to increase the humidity levels in the incubator at lockdown time. For the final three days of incubation, the humidity level should be raised 8-10% higher than what it was during incubation. Higher humidity during the hatching time will prevent the shell membrane from drying out and trapping the chick inside the egg.
However, you don’t want the humidity to get too high since that will inhibit the hatchlings from fluffing out properly. If the hatchlings don’t fluff out fast enough, they could get chilled and die. As the chicks hatch, they will contribute added moisture and humidity within the incubator as well.
After you have candled the eggs, installed shelf liner on the floor of the incubator, stopped automatic turning, and increased the humidity, it’s time to shut the incubator lid and leave it closed until hatch time! Do not disturb the eggs after lockdown and avoid opening the incubator at all costs.
What do you need for hatching chicks at home?
To hatch chicks at home, there are some essential supplies you will need to invest in. Here is a list of incubating supplies to purchase when you plan on hatching chicks:
- Incubator – provides the correct environment for fertile eggs to develop.
- Chick Hatcher (optional) – often used during the last 3 days of incubation for when the chicks hatch.
- Candling Light – a bright light that can penetrate through the eggshell color for candling the eggs.
- Distilled Water – used to maintain humidity in your incubator.
- Hydrometer – a small, digital hydrometer can help you monitor humidity levels in the incubator, versions that have a probe that fits into the incubator ventilation holes are especially helpful.
- Soft Lead Pencil – use a soft lead pencil when marking your hatching eggs so you don’t accidentally puncture the shell.
- Egg Scale (optional) – an egg scale is used for monitoring egg weight loss which can help you get the correct humidity levels during incubation (eggs lose weight as moisture evaporates during incubation).
- Shelf Liner – can be used to create a non-slip surface on the bottom of the incubator during hatch time.
- Brooder – a brooder should be prepared before your chicks hatch.
When choosing an incubator to invest in, there are several factors you’ll want to consider. First, decide how many eggs you will want to incubate. Incubator sizes range from small table-top models that hold a dozen eggs to large cabinet style incubators that can hold several dozen eggs. You should also consider if you want to get a forced air incubator or a still air incubator.
A forced air incubator has a fan installed in it to circulate the air during incubation. The circulating air helps keep the temperature even throughout the whole incubator. A still air incubator lacks a fan, relying on passive warm air rising from the bottom to the top of the incubator, eventually escaping out of the ventilation holes. Do your own research here, but both versions of incubators can be used to successfully hatch chicks.
You should consider these larger factors when choosing an incubator to invest in:
- Turning – does the incubator have an automatic turning system or will you need to turn the eggs manually
- Temperature Control – is the temperature controlled mechanically or electronically
- Humidity Control – is the humidity controlled automatically or do you need to manually monitor the humidity levels
- Ease of Observation – can you easily see the eggs while they are incubating
- Ease of Cleaning – can the incubator be easily cleaned after each batch of eggs
- Price – does the price fit your budget
No matter what incubator you choose, you should always read its instruction manual so you can get a better understanding of how your make and model operates.
How Long Does It Take for Chicks to Hatch? And What is Pipping, Anyway?
FAQ
How long does it take for a chicken egg to hatch naturally?
What happens if eggs don’t hatch in 21 days?
The most common reason eggs don’t hatch within 21 days is that they are not fertilized. In this case, the eggs will simply rot without producing any chicks.Jan 26, 2024
What are the first signs of chicken eggs hatching?
Day 20 : Let pipping begin!
The egg hasn’t been candled now for three days in order to allow the chick move into the proper position for hatching, so the first outward sign we see will be a tiny crack on the surface of the eggshell. This can happen earlier for bantam eggs, and later for large breeds.
Will eggs hatch if they get cold?
Yes, fertilized eggs can still hatch after exposure to cold temperatures, though hatch rates decrease significantly and are dependent on the severity and duration of the cold. Eggs must not freeze, as freezing temperatures damage the embryo and can cause the shell to crack, which ruins the egg’s viability. Short periods of cold, like a few hours or even being refrigerated for a few days, can still result in some chicks hatching, but severe or prolonged cold stress will reduce or eliminate the chances of successful hatching.