Ever watched one of your hens suddenly become super protective of her nest and refuse to leave? That’s a broody hen for ya! As a chicken keeper for over 10 years, I’ve seen my fair share of these determined mothers-to-be. One question I get asked ALL the time is how many eggs can a chicken actually sit on?
The short answer is that most chickens can effectively incubate between 10-14 eggs, but there’s so much more to understand about this fascinating natural process! Let’s dive into everything you need to know about broody hens and their egg-sitting capabilities
Understanding the Broody Hen
Before we talk numbers, we need to understand what makes a hen “broody” in the first place
A broody hen is a chicken that’s driven by hormones and instinct to incubate eggs and hatch chicks. When a hen goes broody, she stops laying eggs herself and focuses entirely on sitting on her nest. This powerful maternal instinct can transform even the sweetest hen into a protective mama that will peck, growl, and puff up her feathers when approached!
Some breeds are more likely to go broody than others. Silkies, Cochins, and Australorps are champion brooders, while production breeds like Leghorns rarely show broody behavior.
Signs Your Hen Has Gone Broody:
- She refuses to leave the nest, even at night
- She plucks feathers from her breast (creating a “brood patch” of bare skin)
- She makes distinctive clucking sounds when approached
- She puffs up her feathers and may peck defensively
- She produces extremely large, foul-smelling poops (broody poops) once or twice a day
How Many Eggs Can a Hen Successfully Incubate?
Now to our main question! The number of eggs a broody hen can effectively sit on depends on several factors:
1. Hen Size and Breed
Larger breeds like Orpingtons, Brahmas, and Cochins can typically cover more eggs due to their greater body mass and larger brood patches. These bigger girls can usually manage 12-15 eggs of the size they normally lay.
Smaller breeds and bantams might only be able to effectively cover 6-8 eggs. If you give a small hen too many eggs, she won’t be able to keep them all warm, resulting in failed hatches.
2. Climate and Season
Temperature plays a huge role in how many eggs a hen can manage:
- Warmer climates/seasons: A hen can handle slightly more eggs since they need less heat
- Colder climates/seasons: Fewer eggs are better as the hen needs to focus her warmth on a smaller clutch
3. Nest Size and Quality
A well-insulated nest with proper bedding helps maintain consistent temperature. The nest should be large enough for the hen to turn and adjust the eggs without accidentally pushing them out.
4. Hen’s Experience and Health
A seasoned broody who has raised chicks before often manages larger clutches better than first-timers. Healthy hens also have more energy reserves to maintain the demanding 21-day incubation period.
The Natural Clutch Size
In nature, a hen typically lays about 12 eggs (called a clutch) before she stops laying and starts sitting on them full-time. This is an important number to remember!
When a hen is allowed to follow her natural instincts, she’ll lay approximately 7-20 eggs in her chosen nesting spot before the hormonal switch occurs that puts her into “broody mode.” At this point, she stops laying and starts the 21-day incubation process.
Determining the Ideal Number of Eggs for Your Broody Hen
I’ve found that starting with around 10 eggs is a good rule of thumb. Then, observe how your hen handles them:
- If she struggles to keep all eggs covered consistently
- If eggs frequently get pushed to the edge of the nest
- If some eggs feel cooler than others when you check
These are all signs that you might need to reduce the number of eggs.
The goal is the sweet spot where ALL eggs receive adequate warmth throughout the incubation period. In my experience, it’s better to have fewer eggs with a higher hatch rate than more eggs with many failures.
Setting Up Your Broody Hen for Success
There are two main approaches to managing a broody hen: the easy way (a separate maternity ward) or the hard way (letting her sit in the regular coop).
Maternity Ward Approach (Recommended)
Ideally, give your broody her own private, quiet, predator-proof space away from the main flock. This setup needs:
- A dark, cozy nesting area with soft bedding
- Food and water stations
- Space for the hen to relieve herself
The benefits are numerous: no competition from other hens, better protection for eggs and chicks, and easier monitoring.
Coop Broody Approach
If you need to let your hen sit in the regular coop, you’ll face some challenges:
- Other hens may try to lay in her nest
- Eggs can get mixed up or broken
- Other hens might bully the broody off her nest
If you go this route, be sure to:
- Mark the hatching eggs clearly with a pencil or permanent marker
- Check under the broody daily for newly laid eggs from other hens
- Consider adding temporary nest boxes for other laying hens
- Move the broody to a lower nest before hatching if her current one is high
Caring for Your Broody Hen
A broody hen undergoes significant physical changes during the 21-day sitting period:
- She eats and drinks much less (about 80% less feed than normal)
- She leaves the nest only once or twice daily for 15-20 minutes
- Her comb may become pale as she dedicates resources to incubation
To support her:
- Provide high-quality feed nearby (chick starter is actually ideal)
- Ensure fresh, clean water is always available
- Keep an eye out for her daily break – if you don’t see her leave the nest at all, she might need to be gently lifted off for a quick food and water break
Monitoring the Eggs
While a broody hen manages most aspects of incubation, you can help ensure success:
Candling
Around day 10 of incubation, you can candle the eggs (shine a bright light through them) to check for development. Remove any clear eggs or those without visible veins.
A second candling around day 17 can identify any eggs that stopped developing. After day 18, avoid moving the eggs as the embryos are getting into hatching position.
What to Watch For
- Broken eggs: Remove immediately to prevent bacterial growth
- Rotten eggs: Do the “sniff test” occasionally – foul smells indicate a bad egg that should be removed
- Eggs pushed out of the nest: Candle these to check viability before returning them
The Hatching Process
After 21 days of dedicated sitting, the magic happens! Chicks will begin cheeping inside their eggs around day 19-20, and hatching typically occurs on day 21 (though it can range from 20-22 days).
During this time, it’s normal for the hen not to leave the nest at all for the final 2-3 days of incubation.
Be Prepared for Potential Issues
Not all broody hens make good mothers. Some may:
- Abandon the eggs before hatching (quitters)
- Attack or kill the chicks once hatched (homicidal broodies)
Always have a backup plan! Keep an incubator on standby, or be prepared to set up a brooder with a heat source if you need to rescue eggs or chicks.
After the Hatch
If all goes well, your broody hen will care for her chicks for about 5-8 weeks. She’ll:
- Keep them warm under her feathers
- Teach them to eat and drink
- Protect them from dangers
- Make distinctive calls to communicate with them
During this period, provide chick starter feed for both hen and chicks. The higher protein content helps the chicks grow and helps mom rebuild her body after the broody period.
After about 5-6 weeks, most hens begin to distance themselves from their chicks and may resume laying eggs.
FAQ: Your Burning Questions Answered
How can I tell if a hen is broody?
She’ll refuse to leave the nest, puff up when approached, make unique clucking sounds, and pluck her breast feathers to create a brood patch.
Can I give a broody hen eggs from another hen?
Absolutely! Broody hens will accept any eggs placed under them. It’s best to add eggs at night when she’s less alert.
What happens if I give a hen too many eggs?
Some eggs won’t receive adequate warmth, resulting in failed development. The hen may also become stressed and potentially abandon the nest.
How long does it take for chicken eggs to hatch?
The incubation period is 21 days from when the hen starts sitting full-time.
Can I move a broody hen and her eggs?
Yes, but it’s tricky. Moving her at night when she’s calm works best. Some hens will continue sitting after being moved, while others may abandon the eggs. Having the new nest ready before moving her increases success.
Is it possible to make a hen go broody?
Nope! Either a hen is broody or she isn’t – you can’t force it. However, if a hen is already leaning toward broodiness, seeing a nest full of eggs might encourage her to commit.
Final Thoughts
Understanding how many eggs a chicken can sit on is more art than science. While the average range of 10-14 eggs provides a good starting point, successful hatching depends on carefully assessing your specific hen’s capabilities and providing the right environment.
I’ve had broody hens successfully hatch anywhere from 6 to 15 eggs, depending on the hen and circumstances. My favorite broody, a little black Silkie named Midnight, once hatched 11 chicks from 12 eggs – an amazing success rate!
Remember that nature has designed this process to work without our intervention. Sometimes the best thing we can do is provide the right conditions and then just let our broody hens do what they do best!
Have you had experience with broody hens? How many eggs did your chicken successfully hatch? I’d love to hear your stories in the comments!
Broody hen house specifications
A broody hen house is no more than a small coop with an attached run. Your hen will be quite happy sitting on the floor; it doesn’t need to have nest boxes. It ideally has the following features:
- Protection from predators as well as bad weather.
- Located in the shade during the hottest part of the day.
- It is separate from other poultry that may disrupt her.
- It has adequate ventilation.
- A grass-run for her to use once her chicks hatch.
- Somewhere quiet, away from other family pets.
My favourite broody hen house was a very old wooden coop that was creosoted and stored away at the end of every summer; however, after using an Omlet Eglu Go for a few years, it has become my new favourite.
The Eglu Go is double-skinned, making it well insulated, and cleaning is straightforward because you can hose down the plastic floor trays which slide out.
You can learn more about this house on the Omlet website.
Inside your broody coop, place an upturned sod of grass or some damp earth as the base for a nest. Slope it up in the corners. The idea is to form a ‘saucer’ shape for the nest so that no eggs can roll out, but also it will help her provide much-needed humidity for her eggs. On top of the soil, build up a nest of clean, dry straw.
The Omlet Eglu also allows you to remove the floor entirely to build the nest directly on the ground. This does increase the risk of predators (such as rats) digging underneath, so exercise some caution with this.
Collection and storage of hatching eggs
It is essential to keep nest boxes clean. Collect hatching eggs as soon as you can so they don’t get soiled or broken by other hens in the house.
Store eggs pointed end down on trays or in egg boxes and find a cool place for them out of the sunlight.
Although it is tempting to try to hatch large eggs, the most viable are usually medium-sized. Do not use very pointed or round eggs since these can make hatching difficult.
When hatching eggs with a broody hen, we typically don’t need to store eggs for a long time because we need to get fertile hatching eggs under her after sitting for a few days.
If you would like to store eggs for longer than a few days, then I have written an article on this subject:
- How to collect and store hatching eggs – Hatching egg storage and the ideal conditions for keeping them over extended periods.